It took a while, but I FINALLY managed to solve this issue.
As the original poster, I needed to enable those settings. In my case, I am using NXFree to log into a remote Gnome session on an Ubuntu machine, and using Wine on it - it's because my main computer is a pre-Intel Macintosh (and thus cannot run Wine).
Techinical stuff (you can skip it and go straight to the solution below)
A big difference between Windows and UNIXes is that, while UNIX applications save their settings in config files, Windows apps generally save them in the registry, a sort of database for settings.
Wine is a unix app, so it used to store its settings in wine.conf or ~/.wine/config, but since it has to emulate the registry anyway (for Windows apps that demand it), they seem to have decided to store their own settings in their simulated registry - so the file we are looking for doesn't exist anymore. Grrrr!
For that reason, the settings must be introduced into the registry. The safe way to do so is to use regedit (a clone of the Windows software that allows you to edit the registry).
Unfortunately, it does not display its fonts (just as winecfg and the apps you wish to run). But there is a solution: we can describe the settings in a temporary file and politely ask regedit to input them into Wine's simulated registry.
Solution in three steps:
1) Create a "settings.txt" file with your favorite text editor (vi, emacs or the Gnome Text Editor under Acessories) with the following three lines:
[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Wine\X11 Driver]
"ClientSideWithRender"="N"
"ClientSideWithCore"="N"
(there should be no extra spaces - for example, a space before or after the equal (=) symbol will cause you trouble).
b) Execute the following command:
regedit settings.txt
c) Run a wine app, for example:
winecfg
It will take a while and display several messages, but, in the end, it will fix the "invisible fonts" problem (the one that makes most people want to turn off client-side rendering).
You can now use regedit (without parameters) to add/remove/change settings (navigate to the key path on the first line of step 1). If regedit does not work anymore, you can repeat the procedure changing "N" to "Y", or even try editing the settings out from ~/.wine/user.reg (at your own risk, I just noticed the settings are appended there, with some magic number on the key name).
Good Luck,
Chester
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