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View Full Version : Hmmm... Interesting. Wanna try and help me out (car problem)



Lord Xeb
August 17th, 2008, 09:29 PM
Apparently, my air conditioner went out for some reason and worked like two days ago. And when I turn it one while the radio is running, the radio cuts out for a split sec. What do you think is going on? I know enough about cars to understand them but not enough to troubleshoot. Any and all post will be accepted.

forrestcupp
August 17th, 2008, 10:41 PM
Is the belt to the condenser broken or has it slipped off? Does the blower even work?

I don't know about the radio; I guess it could be a computer thing. You can usually go to a parts store like Autozone and they can hook your car up to their computer to tell you what's wrong with it. Parts stores will usually do that for free because they want to sell you the parts you need.

mips
August 17th, 2008, 11:21 PM
Apparently, my air conditioner went out for some reason and worked like two days ago. And when I turn it one while the radio is running, the radio cuts out for a split sec. What do you think is going on?

Sounds electrical to me. The clutch on the aircon compressor is electrically activated. When you switch it on the clutch should engage and belt will start to drive the compressor.

Depending on your engine size it is not to hard to check if the clutch engaged or not. At idle keep an eye on the rev counter and switch the aircon on, if the clutch engages the revs will initially drop and then move slightly above the normal idle rpms. This is assuming you dont have some big engine in your car that wont feel it.

Cap'n Skyler
August 18th, 2008, 03:04 AM
Sounds electrical to me. The clutch on the aircon compressor is electrically activated. When you switch it on the clutch should engage and belt will start to drive the compressor.

Depending on your engine size it is not to hard to check if the clutch engaged or not. At idle keep an eye on the rev counter and switch the aircon on, if the clutch engages the revs will initially drop and then move slightly above the normal idle rpms. This is assuming you dont have some big engine in your car that wont feel it.
also the cars computer will not let the car run too fast if the ac is on.the comp backs off the timing so you dont blow any tubes or seals with the AC running.for spirited driving or all our high speed racing LOL you need to shut down the ac :P

J.T.
August 18th, 2008, 03:46 AM
First of all, what year, make and model of car is it? At first thought it sounds like an electrical open, but if it's a newer car, it could be a computer problem.

schauerlich
August 18th, 2008, 03:47 AM
Just start unscrewing things at random. You're bound to find the right nut.

mgranet
August 18th, 2008, 04:09 AM
Check the underhood fuses first.

EDIT:
A/C voltage leaking onto a D/C circuit (such as the radio) can cause issues. If you provide me with the year, make, model, engine, and eighth and tenth VIN digit, I can pull up some wiring diagrams and diagnostic trees for you.

KiwiNZ
August 18th, 2008, 04:46 AM
I would get the vehicle connected to a voltage load meter. If there is a dead short in the Solanoids that actuate the Aircon this will show on the meter.

You can check by having the car on idle with the lights on , switch the Aircon on , if the lights dip that will also indicate a current load issue in teh Aircon.

If your Aircon has run out of refridgerant it may have a protection circuit , this is what maybe causing your voltage surge and affecting the radio current

mips
August 18th, 2008, 10:52 AM
This is one thing I love about these forums (especially the OMGPP) as you can come here with just about any question under the sun and you are bound to get some good advice. I put this down to the size of the forums and the diversity of it's members.

Lord Xeb
August 19th, 2008, 01:46 AM
Okay it is a 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport

I will look a the belts and fuses. The blower works just that when I turn on the air conditioner i just get semi luke warm air e_e

Pogeymanz
August 19th, 2008, 02:51 AM
Then it sounds like a compressor problem.

Get a friend to sit in the car while you stand with the hood open. Have your friend turn on the AC on full blast and you should see if the compressor is kicking on. If it does click on, then you are probably just leaking refrigerant. If it doesn't then the compressor clutch is likely stuck/dead (i.e. New compressor, please).

Lord Xeb
August 19th, 2008, 03:09 AM
Alright. Will do >_>

djsroknrol
August 19th, 2008, 05:06 AM
Apparently, my air conditioner went out for some reason and worked like two days ago. And when I turn it one while the radio is running, the radio cuts out for a split sec. What do you think is going on? I know enough about cars to understand them but not enough to troubleshoot. Any and all post will be accepted.

You might check the multi-connector that's on the firewall of most cars and trucks. Sometimes, in the case of GM cars, it's close by the fuse box.

It sounds like it might be loose...I had it happen to me in a '97 Chevy. Things started going crazy like your symptoms and I unplugged and reseated the connector and never had a problem again.

swoll1980
August 19th, 2008, 05:19 AM
There's no reason the ac being bad would affect the radio. It is probably a bad ground somewhere in the electrical system.

mgranet
August 19th, 2008, 05:28 AM
2 or 4 wheel drive? Also, 4cyl or 6?

Lord Xeb
August 19th, 2008, 05:36 AM
It is a 2/4 wheel drive jeep cherokee sport with an inline 6 4.0L high output engine

tgalati4
August 19th, 2008, 05:36 AM
Definitely check the ground straps. From the alternator to the battery and from the battery to the chassis. Any 10-year-old car will need its grounds cleaned and tightened or replaced.

Lord Xeb
August 19th, 2008, 05:43 AM
I will check that... (well once of my friends anyways) I am by no means an expert on cars but if some directs me, I know how to get around and I know how to use tools :D

mgranet
August 19th, 2008, 05:48 AM
It is a 2/4 wheel drive jeep cherokee sport with an inline 6 4.0L high output engine

For starters, I'm noticing a TSB, dated 11/94. The TSB states, in part:

"The loss of A/C airflow and/or cooling while the A/C blower fan continues to operate may be experienced on some of the above vehicles.

The electrical signal from the A/C cycling clutch switch passes through the PCM to engage and disengage the A/C clutch relay. If the PCM is not properly disengaging the A/C clutch via the relay, the compressor will stay on continuously and result in evaporator freezeup. Also, the PCM may not energize the A/C clutch relay at all. This condition results in the lack of cooling from the A/C system."

The TSB recommends checking for DTC 33. I don't know right now if 33 will set a MIL light, but it is always wise to do what the TSB says first. Saves a lot of headache. This means you will need to check for power at the control side of the relay, and check for battery voltage at the appropriate relay terminal.

I'll keep looking through my literature, and post any wiring diagrams and diagnostic stuff I find. Keep in mind, you may be in for some work. You might just consider taking it in to a shop. A/C work requires special tools, which you may be able to rent, but it's easier to let the professionals take care of the problem.

Also, the advice to visually check for A/C clutch engagement is good advice. I would do that soon as possible.

Lord Xeb
August 20th, 2008, 02:57 AM
I plan on
e_e thanks for all the help huys
I LOVE THIS PLACE :D