Built a new computer....

[mcgodx]

And I have a question. It's probably a dumb one, but here goes:

It is a Micro ATX computer, here are a few pics:

http://a349.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/110/l_97f9cc00e608ce6b81c58a911b60bd84.jpg

http://a919.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/36/l_d9f00539e96fc3a2336b6ce015a232ce.jpg

I have a Core 2 Quad in there, that is running somewhat hot (at around 67-68C), and I will be putting in an nVidia 8800GTS, RAID controller, and an extra 4GB of RAM in there on Wednesday or so. On top of it being really crowded already, it is going to get even worse. Also with heat and all, I was wondering if I can cut cords that are not used on my power supply.

There are many whole lines of cords on my power supply which I will never use (because once I install the stuff I am going to install I will be out of room, and if I replace them I can always reuse the same connector). Will this cause my power supply to stop working properly?

Thanks

(PS I am going to add a fan in the open slot at the top when I get the other stuff)

[sicofante]

Yes you can cut the wires you don't use from the PSU but be careful and don't leave any copper "naked".

If you have any room for a better CPU heatsink, go for it NOW. (If you need some advice on this, I'll be happy to help.)

[tamoneya]

yeah go ahead and cut them but make sure to use either heat shrink tubing or duct tape to prevent them from shorting each other out.

[mcgodx]

Thanks for the replies. The heat sink that Intel provided SHOULD be okay, but we will see I suppose. I think the major problem is stagnant air inside the case. There is one fan directed at the hard drives, and one pushing it out through the top at the back.

That's good to know that I can cut the wires. I may go ahead and do that once I get the other stuff in there and know what I'm looking at. I have a huge mass of wires crammed in my 5.25" bay and it would be nice to be able to have another writer/burner for disk-copying and other stuff.

[Yes]

Try putting some Arctic Silver on the CPU heatsink, that should lower it a few degrees.

[tamoneya]

Thanks for the replies. The heat sink that Intel provided SHOULD be okay, but we will see I suppose. I think the major problem is stagnant air inside the case. There is one fan directed at the hard drives, and one pushing it out through the top at the back.

That's good to know that I can cut the wires. I may go ahead and do that once I get the other stuff in there and know what I'm looking at. I have a huge mass of wires crammed in my 5.25" bay and it would be nice to be able to have another writer/burner for disk-copying and other stuff.

If possible you could move the harddrive fan to direct air over the CPU, RAID, GFX and motherboard. This is because a harddrive are a lot more tolerant to heat. Google did a study a couple of years ago. They go through MANY harddrives as you can probably guess. They found that if anything a slightly higher temperature is better for harddrive. They concluded that the higher temperature causes the lubricants and what not to warm up and run smoother.

EDIT: here is the link to the paper that google published: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&ct=res&cd=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fresearch.google.com%2Farchive%2Fd isk_failures.pdf&ei=OhQ6SPSuO4TieqKE3ccN&usg=AFQjCNGdAu5mMDlzXvPg0CSZPH6HavPX3g&sig2=F8x6iHmAnIdIdDwzAzzPrQ

[mcgodx]

Yeah I think I will do that. The stuff Intel put on there were 3 small strips of whatever it is they use. I have a feeling that's a big reason why, the cheap stuff they use.

http://a535.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/62/l_e05be707790c1930aeeb93fb37fe8456.jpg

There is kind of a space constraint there. According to the website it says CPU cooler cannot exceed 78mm in height.

[mcgodx]

If possible you could move the harddrive fan to direct air over the CPU, RAID, GFX and motherboard. This is because a harddrive are a lot more tolerant to heat. Google did a study a couple of years ago. They go through MANY harddrives as you can probably guess. They found that if anything a slightly higher temperature is better for harddrive. They concluded that the higher temperature causes the lubricants and what not to warm up and run smoother.

EDIT: here is the link to the paper that google published: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&ct=res&cd=1&url=http%3A%2F%2Fresearch.google.com%2Farchive%2Fd isk_failures.pdf&ei=OhQ6SPSuO4TieqKE3ccN&usg=AFQjCNGdAu5mMDlzXvPg0CSZPH6HavPX3g&sig2=F8x6iHmAnIdIdDwzAzzPrQ

Really. That's interesting. I think I'll just take the fan off there right now then and put it on my case as an intake, and just leave the hard drives be then. Thanks I did not know that. Yeah my hard drives have been at a constant 32-35C

[tamoneya]

Really. That's interesting. I think I'll just take the fan off there right now then and put it on my case as an intake, and just leave the hard drives be then. Thanks I did not know that. Yeah my hard drives have been at a constant 32-35C

I find it very interesting and I laugh whenever I see anyone trying to sell cooling fins for a harddrive.

[sicofante]

I was replying from a cell phone and I had not a clear view of your pictures. Now I'm back to my computer and I can see you're using a SilverStone SG02-F case, right? Also, that Intel heatsink looks like the small one they use for the Celerons, not the tall one they use for the rest, but I'm just playing "naked eye photogrametry" here and I might be wrong. Also, is that an Antec Earthwatts PSU you're using? If not, can you please tell me if the PSU's fan is an 80 mm one on the back of the PSU or a 120 mm one on the side facing the CPU heatsink?

If it's the former, you're OK with the airflow. If it's the latter your PSU's fan and the CPU heatsink fan would be "fighting for the same air" creating a far from ideal airflow. In this case I would suggest using a heatsink that supports moving air from the CPU instead of to the CPU. Any heatsink using standard fans would do just by flipping the fan, but I suggest this (http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_page/product_page/cpu/xp120/product_cpu_cooler_xp120.htm?art=MTQyMywxLCxoZW50a HVzaWFzdA==) or this (http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&setlng=en&products_id=18). (Of course these two heatsinks are a good suggestion in any case.)

EDIT2: Oops, I'm sorry, the Thermalright XP120 is 63mm height WIHTOUT the fan. It won't fit. (Neither the Noctua, I'm afraid.) The Zalman CNPS8700 NT (http://www.zalman.com/ENG/product/Product_Read.asp?idx=278) will do at 67 mm and it's a good heatsink too (although reversing the airflow will be tricky).

I second the suggestion about using Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound. I've seen temperature decreases of up to 7º C with it (just follow the instructions from Arctic Silver's site carefully). BTW, you don't say if those 67º C are at idle or load. If it's idle, you're getting really too close to throttle temperatures. I believe the Q6600 (is that your CPU?) throttles at around 80º C.

Cutting the unneeded wires from the PSU will make it definitely easier to manoeuvre inside the system but don't expect it to do wonders with your in-case airflow.

Your drives will be OK if they run between 40º C and 50º C.

I also recommend you put two quiet fans at the top of the case. Take a look here (http://www.silentpcreview.com/article63-page1.html) for a list of silent fans. I also use this (http://www.quietpc.com/es-en-eur/products/casefanaccessories/resistors) to make them even quieter when not too much airflow is needed.

EDIT: OK, I've just seen your last picture and that's definitely NOT the right heatsink for a Core 2 Quad.

[Lostincyberspace]

First don't cut the wires for your psu just return and get a smaller psu, cutting wire will put a big chance of a fire. If the psu is the one that came with your case then you should get a different one any way since they tend to run hotter than others Cooler Master makes great ones. it also looks like you have space for a 80 mm fan at the top I would very much suggest one that blows in air be mounted up there.

[jayson.rowe]

I agree with sicofante, that is not the correct HSF combo for a Q6600 - that is a HSF for a e2xxx or e4xxx dual core CPU...

Take his advice on HSF, that should serve you well - if you are idling in the upper 60's you are just asking for trouble IMHO.

[mcgodx]

I find it very interesting and I laugh whenever I see anyone trying to sell cooling fins for a harddrive.

Yeah I would never go that far... I noticed the new "Velociraptor" hard drives that WD is selling as the replacement to the Raptors is basically a 2.5" hard drive with fins that make it the same width length and height as a 3.5" hard drive. Not so sure they even need it since server hard drives get up to 15,000 RPMs and they are fine. At least at my job they are haha

[mcgodx]

I was replying from a cell phone and I had not a clear view of your pictures. Now I'm back to my computer and I can see you're using a SilverStone SG02-F case, right? Also, that Intel heatsink looks like the small one they use for the Celerons, not the tall one they use for the rest, but I'm just playing "naked eye photogrametry" here and I might be wrong. Also, is that an Antec Earthwatts PSU you're using? If not, can you please tell me if the PSU's fan is an 80 mm one on the back of the PSU or a 120 mm one on the side facing the CPU heatsink?

If it's the former, you're OK with the airflow. If it's the latter your PSU's fan and the CPU heatsink fan would be "fighting for the same air" creating a far from ideal airflow. In this case I would suggest using a heatsink that supports moving air from the CPU instead of to the CPU. Any heatsink using standard fans would do just by flipping the fan, but I suggest this (http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_page/product_page/cpu/xp120/product_cpu_cooler_xp120.htm?art=MTQyMywxLCxoZW50a HVzaWFzdA==) or this (http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&setlng=en&products_id=18). (Of course these two heatsinks are a good suggestion in any case.)

EDIT2: Oops, I'm sorry, the Thermalright XP120 is 63mm height WIHTOUT the fan. It won't fit. (Neither the Noctua, I'm afraid.) The Zalman CNPS8700 NT (http://www.zalman.com/ENG/product/Product_Read.asp?idx=278) will do at 67 mm and it's a good heatsink too (although reversing the airflow will be tricky).

I second the suggestion about using Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound. I've seen temperature decreases of up to 7º C with it (just follow the instructions from Arctic Silver's site carefully). BTW, you don't say if those 67º C are at idle or load. If it's idle, you're getting really too close to throttle temperatures. I believe the Q6600 (is that your CPU?) throttles at around 80º C.

Cutting the unneeded wires from the PSU will make it definitely easier to manoeuvre inside the system but don't expect it to do wonders with your in-case airflow.

Your drives will be OK if they run between 40º C and 50º C.

I also recommend you put two quiet fans at the top of the case. Take a look here (http://www.silentpcreview.com/article63-page1.html) for a list of silent fans. I also use this (http://www.quietpc.com/es-en-eur/products/casefanaccessories/resistors) to make them even quieter when not too much airflow is needed.

EDIT: OK, I've just seen your last picture and that's definitely NOT the right heatsink for a Core 2 Quad.

I have a Core 2 Quad Q9300, the new 45nm one (low end, but the Q9450 was in backorder hell for months before I eventually bought it. Of course the week after I get it it's all over again. Figures.)

The heat sink was packaged with it. It's not really at full load, but then again the fans are not spinning at full speed, either. Right now as I am typing this and doing nothing else other than having Pidgin open it is at 65C.

The fan I plan on getting is one that is identical to the case fans I am using (I got the part number from Silverstone's website). I'm pleased with how quiet they are. They also sell a pretty neat "crossflow" fan as seen here (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835220002)

The power supply is an Antec Earthwatts 500W unit. It does not have the bottom fan.

Looking at that Zalman I may go with that instead of the stock one. It looks like the same design but better, which is good. I'm not sure if it's too wide for the other fan though. I could probably get by without that other one though. (The crossflow fan fits at the back of the computer just above the I/O ports)

[mcgodx]

I agree with sicofante, that is not the correct HSF combo for a Q6600 - that is a HSF for a e2xxx or e4xxx dual core CPU...

Take his advice on HSF, that should serve you well - if you are idling in the upper 60's you are just asking for trouble IMHO.

Just to reiterate, it's not a Q6600. I probably should have stated that in my first post. Sorry about that.

It's a Q9300, which was supposed to be a lot cooler than the Q6600 so perhaps they decided to put a smaller cooler on it.

[sicofante]

First don't cut the wires for your psu just return and get a smaller psu,
He might think of the smaller Seasonics (http://www.seasonic.com/product/pc_sfx.jsp) but I don't think he will gain too much in terms of airflow. Also 300~350 W is a bit too little for his intended setup. I usually measure 250 W on a Q6600 @ 3GHz at full load, and I'm not counting the graphics card, which will suck plenty when playing games.


cutting wire will put a big chance of a fire.I wouldn't say "big chance". It takes a really clumsy DIYer to do this wrong.


If the psu is the one that came with your case then you should get a different one any way since they tend to run hotter than othersYou can read "Antec" in the PSU (see the pictures). That's one of the best brands.


it also looks like you have space for a 80 mm fan at the top I would very much suggest one that blows in air be mounted up there.Actually he's got two (you can't see the second one from his pictures though). I do agree with you and I suggest he fills both.

[sicofante]

It's a Q9300, which was supposed to be a lot cooler than the Q6600 so perhaps they decided to put a smaller cooler on it.

It's not "a lot" cooler. It uses about a 10% less energy, but that doesn't necessarily translate into a 10% cooler. The heatsink you're using is still not appropriate for the Q9300, especially inside your tight case.

However, try running some CPU burning utility (there are plenty for Windows, there's cpuburn in Ubuntu) and monitor your temperatures for at least 30 min. If your CPU doesn't throttle then you're OK, but keep in mind ambient temperature changes throughout the year, and your CPU temps will change with it (unless you're using air conditioning to keep your ambient temperature constant, of course).

Here's a nice read on CPU temps:

http://wccftech.com/forum/core-2-quad-and-duo-temperature-guide-17556.html


EDIT: Since I haven't tried a Q9300 myself yet, I've done a bit of research and it looks it might use up to 25% less energy than the Q6600 at full load. I still recommend you do your own testing.

[mcgodx]

One thing I noticed about the processor is that it hovers a round 2GHz unless I put stress on it in the first place. I have been using cpuburn for a while now and it's staying steady at 78C. The CPU fan is going at full blast, and the case fans are going at a steady half speed. I noticed the CPU go up to 2.5GHz off and on but I'm assuming that's the program demanding more power from time to time.

[tamoneya]

that is probably because you have intel speedstep enabled in the BIOS. this allows the computer to dyanamically change the clock speed while it is running. Running at lower speeds = less power = less heat = cooler system = :)

[mcgodx]

that is probably because you have intel speedstep enabled in the BIOS. this allows the computer to dyanamically change the clock speed while it is running. Running at lower speeds = less power = less heat = cooler system = :)

Ah duh I forgot about that. I expected it of my laptop and completely forgot... maybe people want that out of desktops too? haha.

[sloggerkhan]

I want to vehemently disagree with the guy who suggested using duct tape for the exposed and cut off PSU leads. My advice is electrical tape. My experience with duct tape is that it is semi-permeable and that its adhesive will get gooey and oozy and make things a general gross mess if left in place. This can be exacerbated if it heats up enough to soften the adhesive but not bake it out of the tape.

I love duct tape, but I don't think using it in place of electrical tape is a great idea.

[maniacmusician]

I want to vehemently disagree with the guy who suggested using duct tape for the exposed and cut off PSU leads. My advice is electrical tape. My experience with duct tape is that it is semi-permeable and that its adhesive will get gooey and oozy and make things a general gross mess if left in place. This can be exacerbated if it heats up enough to soften the adhesive but not bake it out of the tape.

I love duct tape, but I don't think using it in place of electrical tape is a great idea.
ditto. It'd be foolish to use anything else.

[tamoneya]

ditto. It'd be foolish to use anything else.

Sorry that was me. Was actually a typo. I would use electrical tape myself but I just say duct tape so often that it didnt even occur to me that I said it.

[mcgodx]

Well I took the fan off the hard drive cage and put it up on the top in the open slot up there. Just started it up, but it is now idling at 61C instead of 67C. So that was a nice free bit of cooling down. While the case was open I did some measuring and that Zalman cooler will not fit. It will hit the northbridge's heatsink.

EDIT

Spoke too soon. It is creeping back up there. It's now at 63-64. Sucks that the Zalman won't fit. Perhaps that auxiliary fan will help in the back that they sell for it. The fact that the change in fan location helped tells me that it is stagnant air that is causing a large part of my high temps.

Or maybe lm-sensors is reading it wrong. My chipset is supposedly hot enough to boil water according to lm-sensors even the instant I log in to Gnome.

[tamoneya]

seems like we are definately making progress. If we can get a better cooler and the better paste you should be in much better shape.

[sicofante]

While the case was open I did some measuring and that Zalman cooler will not fit. It will hit the northbridge's heatsink.
You might want to check other Zalman coolers. The one I suggested has a 12 cm fan, but they also have 9.2 cm versions (as a matter of fact, I've been using those smaller versions until I switched to Thermalright coolers). If you let me know the approximate maximum dimensions that will fit I'll be happy to check that out for you.


Or maybe lm-sensors is reading it wrong. My chipset is supposedly hot enough to boil water according to lm-sensors even the instant I log in to Gnome.Have you gone through all sensors-detect thing? I just done it here and until I did it I couldn't have proper readings. Even after doing it I had to figure out what "temp1" "temp2" etc. meant... (You don't always get descriptive labels. Sometimes you even get labels pointing to wrong values. For instance, I get two CoreTempX labels for meaningless temperatures.)

[Lostincyberspace]

Well I took the fan off the hard drive cage and put it up on the top in the open slot up there. Just started it up, but it is now idling at 61C instead of 67C. So that was a nice free bit of cooling down. While the case was open I did some measuring and that Zalman cooler will not fit. It will hit the northbridge's heatsink.

EDIT

Spoke too soon. It is creeping back up there. It's now at 63-64. Sucks that the Zalman won't fit. Perhaps that auxiliary fan will help in the back that they sell for it. The fact that the change in fan location helped tells me that it is stagnant air that is causing a large part of my high temps.

Or maybe lm-sensors is reading it wrong. My chipset is supposedly hot enough to boil water according to lm-sensors even the instant I log in to Gnome.
I think some thing is lost in you math about being able to boil water with your cpu it is hot but not that hot.

When you moved you fan to the top did you put the cover back on to test the heat (people don't do this all the time and it really screws with results) if not make sure the cover is always on when you test for heat.

Also you might check out this zalman it is a low profile one so it might work well there.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118030

Also make sure you get a fan for the side where the hard drives are blowing out it will produce some good airflow in the case and keep the air from getting stagnent.

[mcgodx]

You might want to check other Zalman coolers. The one I suggested has a 12 cm fan, but they also have 9.2 cm versions (as a matter of fact, I've been using those smaller versions until I switched to Thermalright coolers). If you let me know the approximate maximum dimensions that will fit I'll be happy to check that out for you.

Have you gone through all sensors-detect thing? I just done it here and until I did it I couldn't have proper readings. Even after doing it I had to figure out what "temp1" "temp2" etc. meant... (You don't always get descriptive labels. Sometimes you even get labels pointing to wrong values. For instance, I get two CoreTempX labels for meaningless temperatures.)

Yeah I did the sensors-detect. I'm not so sure if I did it right though, as I think there were a few instances where I had to answer questions. I may go through it again.

[mcgodx]

I think some thing is lost in you math about being able to boil water with your cpu it is hot but not that hot.

When you moved you fan to the top did you put the cover back on to test the heat (people don't do this all the time and it really screws with results) if not make sure the cover is always on when you test for heat.

Also you might check out this zalman it is a low profile one so it might work well there.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118030

Also make sure you get a fan for the side where the hard drives are blowing out it will produce some good airflow in the case and keep the air from getting stagnent.
I didn't mean CPU. I meant northbridge. lm-sensors always shows it being 95-105C.

Yes I put the cover on.

Thanks for the link on the Zalman, the northbridge's heatsink is about 60mm away from the center of the CPU. I couldn't measure how tall it is without taking the case apart or the motherboard out and I didn't really want to do that last night. It might be okay, from looking at the shape of the unit, since i t is narrow at the base and wide at the top.

[sicofante]

Yeah I did the sensors-detect. I'm not so sure if I did it right though, as I think there were a few instances where I had to answer questions. I may go through it again.
I just went "YES", "YES", "YES" (I know I should've read each question carefully but I'm just too lazy), and I got lots of sensors ready for my Gnome applet. Then I figured what was what. I have a few below zero temperatures in the list, which doesn't make any sense, so I just discarded them. You just need the CPU temp or, if you're lucky, each core's temp, although they'll be away from each other a couple degrees Celsius at worst so don't worry too much.

Don't forget to run four instances of burnP6 at the same time or you won't be burning but just one core.

[mcgodx]

I just went "YES", "YES", "YES" (I know I should've read each question carefully but I'm just too lazy), and I got lots of sensors ready for my Gnome applet. Then I figured what was what. I have a few below zero temperatures in the list, which doesn't make any sense, so I just discarded them. You just need the CPU temp or, if you're lucky, each core's temp, although they'll be away from each other a couple degrees Celsius at worst so don't worry too much.

Don't forget to run four instances of burnP6 at the same time or you won't be burning but just one core.

Heh. I forgot to do that. I only had one instance of burnP6 running. I did hit just YES YES YES YES and YES to everything in sensors-detect as well.

I just ran four instances of it, and the temperature is at 86C. Didn't throttle the CPU any though. The fan is at 2400rpms or so which I am assuming is the maximum speed.

I guess that aftermarket cooler really is a must. Or something anyway.

[sicofante]

Yep. Even given today's processors protection against overheating, 86º C looks a bit too much to me too.

[mips]

One reason I stay away from overly small cases is heat.
I would stick with your current Antec PSU, they are really good.
I would rather tidy up the cords with zipties/cable ties before cutting them. Your cabling is a general mess to be honest.
Look into better cpu coolers.

[mcgodx]

One reason I stay away from overly small cases is heat.
I would stick with your current Antec PSU, they are really good.
I would rather tidy up the cords with zipties/cable ties before cutting them. Your cabling is a general mess to be honest.
Look into better cpu coolers.

That was temporary. I'm going to tidy it up once I get the final pieces in the case as I don't want to have to undo it all to make stuff fit. So that'll be Friday or so. For now I just have as much power cables as I can shoved in to the 5.25" drive bay, but since I won't be able to add anything additional after this (might put in a PCI wireless adapter but probably won't) I figure "why have all those power cords?".

We'll see though.

Oh and I measured my case, it was hard to eyeball where the edge of the case will be, but I am guessing anywhere from 60-62mm away from the center of the CPU, and according to Zalman's site, nothing can be within 61.5mm from the CPU that has a height greater than 39mm. That's the only thing that would be a problem, as the northbridge's heatsink is about 35-36mm high, and the RAM is just a little shorter than that.

[wolfen69]

i had a setup just like yours and wound up leaving the sides off the case and having a floor fan aimed at it to keep it cool. it wasnt worth it. i wound up going back to my full sized case with lots of "breathing" room. now my drives and cpu are much happier.

is there a reason you need a small case? i think these small cases are fine for older, less heat generating equipment, but just dont cut it for high powered stuff.

[mcgodx]

i had a setup just like yours and wound up leaving the sides off the case and having a floor fan aimed at it to keep it cool. it wasnt worth it. i wound up going back to my full sized case with lots of "breathing" room. now my drives and cpu are much happier.

is there a reason you need a small case? i think these small cases are fine for older, less heat generating equipment, but just dont cut it for high powered stuff.

My desk space is limited, some components were cheaper, and I wanted to do it. I'm pretty sure I can pull it off. Especially after what I read here about the cooler that came with my CPU.

[sicofante]

Oh and I measured my case, it was hard to eyeball where the edge of the case will be, but I am guessing anywhere from 60-62mm away from the center of the CPU, and according to Zalman's site, nothing can be within 61.5mm from the CPU that has a height greater than 39mm. That's the only thing that would be a problem, as the northbridge's heatsink is about 35-36mm high, and the RAM is just a little shorter than that.
Can you please let me know your motherboard brand and model? I've fitted many Zalmans before. I think I can tell you if you'll be able to use one of the "small" ones.

Just out of curiosity, are you in Europe? US? Asia?

[mcgodx]

Can you please let me know your motherboard brand and model? I've fitted many Zalmans before. I think I can tell you if you'll be able to use one of the "small" ones.

Just out of curiosity, are you in Europe? US? Asia?

I'm in the US. My motherboard is an Intel DG35EC (http://www.intel.com/products/motherboard/DG35EC/index.htm).

[cackles]

Im only talking from experience but ...

Ill get you a 'mission impossible' showing of how Ive fitted the big Zalman (67mm height) fans into my mATX cases which are similar to that, its how you fit them and also the northbridge might get in the way but all you do is take a few mm off the fins of the NB closest to the CPU, a pair of pliers and some gentle swaying does it. Usually just on a few of the first row. That big Zalman will be basking it in air anyways. Voids warranty? Get another crappy NB heatsink and cut that then and remember to clean the heatsink with acetone and grease it again, LIGHTLY.

Yes, someone please tell me how you cant slide the mobo tray in because the fans are too big, I got around that.

If you want to put a Zalman in as big as a CNPS7700-Cu fit the mount, grease the CPU, slide in the mobo tray remove the PSU and then attach the heatsink from the side. In saying that I dunno if yours has a mobo tray, but it worked for me. Hangs over the edge of the mobo by about 2mm but the sides go on in mine and I have 3 of the cases.

TBH I prefer the cheapo cases like that with the PSU at the other side and a nice 120mm fan where your PSU currently is pulling air accross the CPU.

Heres the simplest solution to your problem though ... buy a 5.25" bay slotted intake with 3 fans and run them at 5v, even put a rheostat in to control them and hide it in the space between your mobo and the front of the case, tape it down though.

Anyways, back to you, DONT bother cutting the excess wire. Get ties, bundle them up and fix them onto that big blank space on your PSU above where they all come out, just affix them to the other wires and themselves that are exiting the PSU. If you feel you MUST cut them use heat shrink to seal them. If you cut them though and you have to daisy chain everything and you end up wi a GFX card or something thats power hungry and your PSU has 2 rails for power you might leave yourself with only one rail and the point of no return if you cant solder and join properly.

Buy another fan for that HDD intake as well, it will be cooler air getting into the case even if it needs to go accross the HDD and gets warmed, it wont be as hot as the CPU.

Use the top fan as an Exhaust or if its no good as an exhaust use it as an intake and the HDD one as an exhaust.

See if you can fit a couple of 60mm fans to that grill above the PCI slots.

Maybe buy a hole saw and fit an 80mm fan on either side.

Remember you can use fan controllers for all these things and hide it in that space below your 5.25" bays between the mobo + front of the case.

As an experiment remove the spare 5.25" bay cover, this may seriously damage airflow depending on how well designed your case is, but you can try.

These are old pics (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/access.granted/somepics/) but if you check out kidsroom and livingroom youll see theres 2 similar sizes there. Also that heap of crap I have in my workshop hooked up to a dual screen is a Q6600, P5K-E wifi or something mobo and 4 GB RAM with a few mods you wouldnt know are there and apparently that RAM doesnt work on my mobo :lolflag: ... currently in process of building my own case with with 2 inline fans used for ventilation. You can go up the directory and see other experiments Ive done with peltiers and stuff too. Im not sure if I have if the 'procedure' pics anywhere in there, its all a jumble.

[sicofante]

I'm in the US. My motherboard is an Intel DG35EC (http://www.intel.com/products/motherboard/DG35EC/index.htm).
That's quite a big Northbridge heatsink indeed. I'm sorry I haven't used Intel motherboards in my builds (I use Asus and Gigabyte). I think the smaller Zalmans should fit though, but that's just a guess. I have uploaded a picture of a 7000AlCu (http://www.zalman.com/ENG/product/Product_Read.asp?idx=149) with some dimensions overlaid for you here (http://loquecreas.com/sicofante/).

(You can also download a PSD file with all layers, just in case you want to do your own photogrammetry.)

[mcgodx]

After thinking about it more, I decided to buy the Zalman originally proposed, the 8700. It should fit, but we shall find out on Friday. I forgot to order some compound though so I guess I'll be hunting for that locally. I hope I can find some, the shipping on it is as much as the stuff is to begin with.

[mcgodx]

Alright guys I did my upgrades...

New additions:

80mm fan back in the hard drive cage in addition to the 2 others.
Zalman CNPS7800 NT cooler with Arctic Silver 5.
nVidia 8800GTS
Areca RAID controller

I also picked up an eSATA port that went with my external hard drive which was kinda cool.

So far the cooling isn't phenomenal which doesn't surprise me all that much, but it is better. With the RAID controller, I think I lost my SMART connectivity through the hardware sensors applet, but I am not worried about them. The CPU is down to 60C, and my video card is at 54C.

Some pics:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/mcgodx/DSC_0124.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/mcgodx/DSC_0123.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y296/mcgodx/DSC_0122.jpg

I decided not to cut the wires just yet. I probably won't since when I took more time to organize my wires, they are actually pretty much all stuffed inside the 5.25" drive bay.

[sicofante]

I can't see very clearly from the picture, but may I suggest you put the cables in that little space on top of the CD and below the cover? You might want to open the lower 5 1/4" bay to let some fresh air from the front in. That might help the Zalman and the PSU.

If those 60º C are at full load stable (4 x BurnP6 x 12 hours at least), that's not too bad, though certainly not "phenomenal" (no need for phenomenal anyway). You should check the room's temperature, however, and take note of the CPU's temperature rise from that. That's the important parameter and will let you guess what it'll be in the summer with hotter ambient temps. The graphics card is "overcooled" (not to worry about that, of course), probably by having those two fans blowing air on it. Graphics cards will throttle at some 130º C, so anything below 100º is OK.

Don't forget to make your tests with the case closed and also remember the Arctic Silver 5 will "cure" in a few weeks, giving you a few less degrees by then.

And how about the noise? Are you happy with this setup's noise level?

[mcgodx]

It's surprisingly quiet. I haven't really gotten a chance to game on it yet (because Windows is being a pain in the *** but that is another story). I haven't noticed a difference in noise other than the Zalman has a higher pitched noise than the Intel one, but doesn't seem any louder. The video card is kind of a problem I think, the fans at the top aren't getting air to the CPU now because of the video card being in the way.

There is a fan that looks a little like a turbine that can fit in the back. I was hoping to go without it but I decided today to go ahead and order it since I now know it will fit. I'm sure that will help too.