Can I use brake cleaner to clean electronic parts??

[ClientAlive]

Title pretty much says it all.

The mobo and everything else is in the case and I'd rather not take it all apart. I bought the thing used on craigslist for $50 about 8 mos ago and found out after the person drove away that it was infested with cockroaches => I-mean-infested!!

I got rid of the bugs but the thing is still full of their crap, it stinks, and it'll probably burn the computer up if I tried to run it like that for very long! I was hoping I could take the whole thing (case and all) across the street to the convenience store where they have an air compressor, take my can of brake cleaner and just soak the hell out of everything. Let it sit a few secs then blow it out w/ the air compressor. Repeat until can of brake cleaner is exhausted. :D

Is it safe to use though? Brake cleaner usually has a clorinated derivative of THF in it. Would that melt anything in there?

Thanks in advance for any info.

[Elfy]

Thread moved to The Community Cafe.

[spiky001]

Just by blowing it out should clean it, Or it might be better to use an electrical cleaner, I have used brake cleaner on electrical parts in a car BUT it is always a risk.

[mips]

I'm gonna say no to err on the side of caution, it's also toxic. I suspect it will do more than just clean the parts.

You get products for this job.

http://www.acc-silicones.com/products/electrochemicals.ashx
http://www.maplin.co.uk/electronic-cleaning-solvent-28993
http://www.maplin.co.uk/pcb-cleaner-27521

[ClientAlive]

Just by blowing it out should clean it, Or it might be better to use an electrical cleaner, I have used brake cleaner on electrical parts in a car BUT it is always a risk.


Yeah, just didn't want to waste money, time effort on the compressor if it didn't work (and have to drag that tower across the street). Plus electronic cleaner is prob 10x the price of a cheap can of brake cleaner. Just tryin' to fig out a cheap way to do this. lol.

Thanks
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Edit:

I saw this on the internet: http://androidforums.com/htc-hero-sprint/67521-melted-my-hero-auto-brake-cleaner.html

Guy melted parts on his hero (cell phone). But it sounds like it melted parts that were some other material than the electronic parts.

[t4thfavor]

No!, brake cleaner will eat the crap out of your PCB's. They make cleaner specific to cleaning sticky stuff off pcb's. It looks a lot like break cleaner, but is not corrosive.

I have had lots of luck with straight rubbing alcohol. just test it on the plastic parts in small amounts and ensure it's dry before starting it back up.

[handy]

I'm gonna say no to err on the side of caution, it's also toxic. I suspect it will do more than just clean the parts.

You get products for this job.

http://www.acc-silicones.com/products/electrochemicals.ashx
http://www.maplin.co.uk/electronic-cleaning-solvent-28993
http://www.maplin.co.uk/pcb-cleaner-27521

@mips: I thought you would've recommended metho'.

As you have mentioned in a previous post, it evaporates quickly, removes water (not that, that is the problem in this case).

It would also sterilise the case & components to some degree as well, & it isn't too expensive.

@OP: I would think that if you do use metho', you would be best not to soak your fans in it as it may dilute or remove some of their lubrication.

As far as compressed air is concerned, I've found it to be the best way to remove dust & crap from computers, cases, heat sinks & such. If you do use it, don't let it spin the fans, as they can spin faster than they were designed, & if you happen to be incredibly unlucky there is the remote chance that they can produce an electric charge & damage the electronics.

[KiwiNZ]

Alcohol is best as it will evaporate. Also a can of air would blast it sufficiently just don't allow it to frost on the surfaces, hold the can a reasonable distance to prevent this.

Other cleaners will leave a residue or etch delicate parts,soldering and IC's.

[handy]

Alcohol is best as it will evaporate. Also a can of air would blast it sufficiently just don't allow it to frost on the surfaces, hold the can a reasonable distance to prevent this.

Other cleaners will leave a residue or etch delicate parts,soldering and IC's.

Metho' is cheaper & does the same job.

[KiwiNZ]

Metho' is cheaper & does the same job.

As long as it's white metholated spirits, the purple meths can leave a residue.

[tgalati4]

That would be a "purple haze".

[handy]

As long as it's white metholated spirits, the purple meths can leave a residue.

I've not seen the purple meth's in my little town, not that I've bought any for a while.

It is certainly a good thing to point out here though.

[Bandit]

I've not seen the purple meth's in my little town, not that I've bought any for a while.

It is certainly a good thing to point out here though.


Theres a lot of Meth in my town.. :rolleyes:

[lisati]

Theres a lot of Meth in my town.. :rolleyes:

Probably best to stay clear of that sort while attempting repairs on your PC :D

The only meths I remember seeing in my younger days is the purple sort.

[KiwiNZ]

I've not seen the purple meth's in my little town, not that I've bought any for a while.

It is certainly a good thing to point out here though.

I still prefer and recommend Isopropyl Alcohol.

[ClientAlive]

Theres a lot of Meth in my town.. :rolleyes:

Are we still talking about computers? :popcorn:



I'm gonna say no to err on the side of caution, it's also toxic. I suspect it will do more than just clean the parts.

You get products for this job.

http://www.acc-silicones.com/products/electrochemicals.ashx
http://www.maplin.co.uk/electronic-cleaning-solvent-28993
http://www.maplin.co.uk/pcb-cleaner-27521


I didn't realize these products were so cheep, actually. I expected one would pay at least double what something in the auto parts store would cost. Of course, the real value is in the equipment in question though - that's why I asked about it.

So what is this metho' you guys are talking about? Is that short for methanol? Someone said metholated spirits? But I didn't think there were different types.

[handy]

Sorry, I often resort to local colloquialisms & that one is one I grew up with.

Metho' = methylated spirits.

[mips]

@mips: I thought you would've recommended metho'.

As you have mentioned in a previous post, it evaporates quickly, removes water (not that, that is the problem in this case).

It would also sterilise the case & components to some degree as well, & it isn't too expensive.

@OP: I would think that if you do use metho', you would be best not to soak your fans in it as it may dilute or remove some of their lubrication.


Yes, you are right as I usually would recommend meths.
His scenario sounds pretty bad though and I suspect would require the use of a nylon bristle brush in conjunction with the meths.

The PCB/Contact cleaner products do a better job than meths I would have to admit. If it's a bad case & you have easy access to it then use it if meths is not sufficient. I have had cases where meths does not do the job 100%, that pcb cleaner on the other hand will make stuff look brand spanking new. I don't have easy access to pcb cleaner so just stick to meths.




So what is this metho' you guys are talking about? Is that short for methanol? Someone said metholated spirits? But I didn't think there were different types.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol

Thing with meths is that it's really easy to come buy as you can buy it at a corner shop or supermarket and it's really cheap. It's handy for cleaning most things. Isopropyl alcohol is harder to come by and more expensive, I can only get it from the local chemist.

Go buy yourself a litre of meths and use a nylon bristle brush. Before you do that however first brush off all surface dust & gunk and followed by a blast of compressed air, if you don't that crap mixed with whatever liquid you use and can form a mud like paste. So regardless of which route you go first dry brush it & blow with compressed air before applying any liquids.

[handy]

Thanks mips.

So many posts I see in this forum really should be a part of the Ubuntu wiki, then we could just give the link & say there is your answer.

[mips]

Thanks mips.

So many posts I see in this forum really should be a part of the Ubuntu wiki, then we could just give the link & say there is your answer.

+1

I have this old NAD 3020i stereo amp on my desk I use with my PC and one day I want to restore & upgrade (new capacitors, pots, wire etc) it and for that job I intend getting some PCB cleaner as I've seen the results that can be achieved on a 20-30 year PCB.

[Dobbie03]

Yeah, just didn't want to waste money, time effort on the compressor if it didn't work (and have to drag that tower across the street). Plus electronic cleaner is prob 10x the price of a cheap can of brake cleaner. Just tryin' to fig out a cheap way to do this. lol.

Thanks
------------------

Edit:

I saw this on the internet: http://androidforums.com/htc-hero-sprint/67521-melted-my-hero-auto-brake-cleaner.html

Guy melted parts on his hero (cell phone). But it sounds like it melted parts that were some other material than the electronic parts.

When you use an air compressor dont you need to watch how much moisture you maybe blowing into your computer?

[handy]

When you use an air compressor dont you need to watch how much moisture you maybe blowing into your computer?

No water comes out of my cheap air compressor & I've been using it for quite a number of years & on many computers when I was in the business of fixing them.

[detroit/zero]

Somebody already said it, but isopropyl alcohol would be your safest bet. That, a hog's-hair paint brush clipped down to make the bristles stiff enough to scrub with (hog's hair = anti-static) and some elbow grease. The alcohol will evaporate without leaving any residue, and if you scrub well enough, you can always clean up some of the leftover flux around the component leads. (Pine-tar flux is conductive.)

Brake cleaner is an super-duper-strength (read: less diluted) version of the flux remover (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Techspray/1621-10S/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtyU1cDF2RqUNuSuuRo%2fzzm5iD8J4qCIDs% 3d) used by professional electronic technicians. I've seen the flux remover blast the labeling off of ICs and other components. It can and will melt and/or eat through some kinds of plastic.

Having said all that, I've worked as an electronic technician for years now. Daily, I take electronic circuit boards right to a sink we have in the shop, spray them with water and degreaser, scrub them with nylon brushes, rinse them off and dry them with an air hose, and without waiting even five minutes, take them to my bench and power them up to conduct my tests. Not just old hunks of junk, either, but modern, industrial electronics with processors, RAM, programmables, and all manner of digital, analog and discrete components.

If you go the water route, just make sure it's dry before you apply power. If your air hose isn't all that strong, put it in front of a fan for 12 or 24 hrs to let it dry.

EDIT: I just want to clear up a couple things I went back and re-read.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol

No. Denatured alcohol leaves a conductive residue when it dries. It might look clean, and you might think you can go back and scrub off the white, filmy residue from the components - and you can.. but who's to say what lies between the pins of a 256-QFP?


When you use an air compressor dont you need to watch how much moisture you maybe blowing into your computer?

No. Just make sure it's dry before you power it up.

[ClientAlive]

When you use an air compressor dont you need to watch how much moisture you maybe blowing into your computer?


The air compressor I had designs on is the one at the convenience store/ gas station across the street. The kind you put a quarter in and it gives you 5 min on the compressor. I'm sure it is not maintained by those pimple faced kids (no offense) any where near the way it ought to be. I probably would have jumped the gun and used it, except it didn't have the right type of tip on it. After seeing the responses here and hearing from another friend on the matter I see that would not be the way to go - at all. A compressor like that would probably not just spit water but oil and all kinds of crap! I would have been worse off, not better.
-------------------------

Edit:

I'd like to get the pcb cleaner someone showed us. That stuff was really not that expensive; and, as more people have talked about it, sounds like it really does a good job. I was just mistaken on how much something like that costs.

Only problem now is - I've been loathing the idea of pulling that mother out. That case is full of wires all over the place, plugged in here and there. I'd have to keep track of all that, and . . . well, you get the idea. Just being lazy I guess. I know that's probably the right way to do it.

[forrestcupp]

You could see how much you can vacuum out first with the hose on your vacuum cleaner. Some people may frown on that, but I've done it many times without any problem. I'd rather vacuum stuff up than blow it all over the place.

But if it were me, I'd probably cut my losses and trash it. Is it really worth the $50 to have to clean up a case full of cockroach crap?

[ClientAlive]

You could see how much you can vacuum out first with the hose on your vacuum cleaner. Some people may frown on that, but I've done it many times without any problem. I'd rather vacuum stuff up than blow it all over the place.

But if it were me, I'd probably cut my losses and trash it. Is it really worth the $50 to have to clean up a case full of cockroach crap?


In my case? That would be a resounding Yes! I'm sure this is difficult for most people to understand; but, for me, I'm lucky to have that. I feel blessed!

[forrestcupp]

In my case? That would be a resounding Yes! I'm sure this is difficult for most people to understand; but, for me, I'm lucky to have that. I feel blessed!

Well, if it's worth it to you, then I can't blame you. When I was a lot younger, I probably would have done the same thing.

[mips]

The air compressor I had designs on is the one at the convenience store/ gas station across the street. The kind you put a quarter in and it gives you 5 min on the compressor.

What? You guys pay for air?

Lol, over here it's a free service.

[handy]

What? You guys pay for air?

Lol, over here it's a free service.

I boycott any service station that does that here.

[ClientAlive]

What? You guys pay for air?

Lol, over here it's a free service.


Depends on where you go. Most of the time it is a quarter or even 50 cents at the convenience store gas stations.

Next they'll be charging us to breath - lol!

[KiwiNZ]

I boycott any service station that does that here.

The Compressors hoses and attachments cost and need a return on the investment.

My own fathers experience was that the Tools and gauges were damaged often due to customer neglect and the hoses need replacing often.

[ClientAlive]

The Compressors hoses and attachments cost and need a return on the investment.

My own fathers experience was that the Tools and gauges were damaged often due to customer neglect and the hoses need replacing often.


Everything costs someone something. The only question is who. Businesses are in business to make money. Before they can do that though they must at least pay their overhead. The real debate is whether only those who use a particular product or service should be the ones to pay or if that cost should be spread out across everyone (through increased prices on other things). Spreading it across everyone is more beneficial for the company because it, in effect, creates incentive for people to visit the store thus driving up foot traffic. Who knows, maybe one of those bums will actually dig his hand in his pocket.

Nothing is really free though (take napkins for example, or the ketchup and mustard packets, etc). The people who made those packets don't go to work at the factory because it's fun. They go because they get paid. You simply cannot eliminate value from the labor of the people.

So somebody pays. Either through elevated prices on other things or directly because nothing is given away without charging. Now the real kicker? Which side do you fall on? Ask yourself, would I rather pay 50 cents or 25 cents for air when I'm the one using it or would I rather pay an addition X% on everything else I buy because I'm now paying for the guy that uses the air for free but never buys anything?

Hmmm . . .


Think I just hijacked my own thread - DOH!!

[zer010]

If that tower was a roach nest, removing all the parts will be a must. The configurations of parts and wires are pretty straightforward.

As for cleaning solution, if you go with something carried by WalMart, use 90% Isopropyl Alcohol. It's strong and it evaporates relatively quickly. The other 10% is water. I use it on many electronics and I've not had any problems as long as it's completely dry afterwards.

Since it's probably got roach feces stuck to everything some scrubbing will probably be required. For the mobo, use a soft bristled brush so you don't bend any leads. I actually use a horsehair brush and it seems to work well. Watch out for bristles getting caught in some points. For general cleaning of the case, just soak a rag in the alcohol and get to work.

Since roaches can and do get into everything, don't be surprised if an optical drive isn't working right. Besides taking the whole thing apart and cleaning it by hand, that's when you want some compressed air to blow out what you can. After that, use a lens cleaning disc with a drop of window cleaner on the disc's bristles. Run that a few times to be sure the lens is clean.

After many years of salvaging and cleaning up junk PCs, this is pretty much my usual approach and I've usually come out on top with a decent working PC. Hope this helps!

[mips]

Ask yourself, would I rather pay 50 cents or 25 cents for air when I'm the one using it or would I rather pay an addition X% on everything else I buy because I'm now paying for the guy that uses the air for free but never buys anything?


Over here fuel prices are the same irrespective of which fuel station you use (regulated) so they can't just add it to the price of fuel. Free air is a service they offer which they pay for as part of their operating expenditure. It's been free as long as I can remember. Some stations also offer loyal customers a free car wash after X amount of visits.

[ClientAlive]

I ended up going with store bought IPA (isopropyl alcohol, 70%). It seemed to leave a lot of residual water condensation after the alcohol evaps; but, all in all, seems to work well and not damage anything. I don't have access to any kind of forced air (air compressor/ canned air) and I wouldn't pay 8 or 9 bucks a can for canned air, so I just dab the components with a napkin or paper towel and let them air dry. I do think that if I had air (or iso of a higher concentration) I'd be better off, but it seems to work for now - and that's what matters to me. In the future I think I'll look for the high test stuff though (98 or 99% iso).

Thanks for all your input guys.

[t4thfavor]

Ethyl 99% denatured (of course) will work just as good, and doesn't smell all that bad either. It's usually in the bottle with the green label on it at the drug store (at least in the USA).