low cost computer build

[PhenixRising]

hello, I have not built a computer in several years which makes me 100% out of touch with today's market. And I'm only going to have between 200-300 for the parts. A power spike killed my two computers and cash is tight right now. (yes they were all protected w/ surge protectors.)

I do not need to get a lot out of my computer. My biggest demand is when I play poker and run a database on anywhere from 15-25 tables. I was running it w/o much trouble on a 8400 Dimension 3.6 ghz pent 4 w/ 2 gigs of ram and sata drive. I imagine anything recent will make it easier.

As for RAM, I figure its wiser to go with DDR2 since I'm most likely buying a board that will have few if any areas to upgrade. And I have two DDR2 1 gig sticks.

I prefer AMD since they seem more open source friendly. But I honestly have no clue about processors anymore. I used to know them in more detail but my learning curve is too high at the moment. I feel like a complete newb again.

I do not know much about video cards either. I'm not sure which work best under linux anymore. I figure the simplest thing to do is to just buy a decent Motherboard/CPU/VGA combo. I do not care if it can do high def but that is a plus. My gf will probably want to do some photo/video editing so if I can get something that will handle a hobbyist then thats also a plus.

I'm going to recycle my old Antec case. I'd like to go with a micro case but why waste a decent piece of equipment. However I'm buying a new PSU. I'll probably go with an 80 plus rated PSU.

The PSU will probably run between 40-50 which leaves me 200-250 to get a HD, motherboard, cpu and video card. The peripherals will either come from my old set up or I'll pick them up at a later date or squeeze them in if its possible. If I can't get a combo drive then I'll need a motherboard that will let me boot from a flash drive or an external combo drive.

It'd be great if anyone could help me out. I really can not afford to make a mistake.

[czr114]

Did the power spike kill all of the hardware in the two computers?

If some of that hardware can be salvaged, it will give you additional options in choosing which goodies can be purchased (such as an SSD) by freeing up cash that doesn't need to be spent.

[TenPlus1]

check out www.eclipse-computers.com if your in the UK... you can build an amazing system on their website for under 300... I'd recommend getting a UPS though...

[PhenixRising]

Did the power spike kill all of the hardware in the two computers?

If some of that hardware can be salvaged, it will give you additional options in choosing which goodies can be purchased (such as an SSD) by freeing up cash that doesn't need to be spent.

I honestly do not know. I'm not sure how to test it out since I'm only on my old laptop now. I am hoping that my ram is fine. It'd be great if my sata HD was still working but I'm not going to hold my breath. I'm not all that concerned about my optical drives since my external still works and I can't remember the last time I actually installed anything with a cd. I also watch all my dvds on my PS3.

[PhenixRising]

check out www.eclipse-computers.com if your in the UK... you can build an amazing system on their website for under 300... I'd recommend getting a UPS though...

yea, I thought about a UPS today when I read another thread discussing a build. Once I can afford one I'll get it.

I'm in the US but I can take a look anyway to get some ideas.

Thanks.

[cariboo]

Wouldn't it be cheaper to just beg/borrow another power supply to check you hardware out, before buying new?

[czr114]

I honestly do not know. I'm not sure how to test it out since I'm only on my old laptop now. I am hoping that my ram is fine. It'd be great if my sata HD was still working but I'm not going to hold my breath. I'm not all that concerned about my optical drives since my external still works and I can't remember the last time I actually installed anything with a cd. I also watch all my dvds on my PS3.
Figuring out what still works should really be step one.

We could put together a list of Newegg links, but if you've got good gear left in those machines, that'll waste your money. The budget is tight, so it's vital to preserve as much stuff as possible.

Suppose the power spike blew out two dodgy PSUs and nothing else. How much useful gear might remain?

[PhenixRising]

Wouldn't it be cheaper to just beg/borrow another power supply to check you hardware out, before buying new?

I feel a bit uncomfortable asking someone to let me borrow their power supply. I think the first thing I'll do is just get a power supply and work from there.

[Changturkey]

I'd go with an Athlon II 240 or such, plus a AMD mobo. That takes care of CPU, GPU, and Mobo; AMD's IGP's are decent enough to hand basic games.

[westom1]

I feel a bit uncomfortable asking someone to let me borrow their power supply. I think the first thing I'll do is just get a power supply and work from there.
Why do so much labor? Less than one minute with a digital meter will says everything. Including things that would leave you confused if working harder - swapping a supply.

Simply measure voltage on any one purple, green, orange, red, and yellow wires both before and when the power switch is pressed. Then a next reply willreport the one or two defective suspects. A minute of labor, no removing parts or disconnecting wires, and an answer that comes without speculation.

Easiest and fastest way to have a useful answer. Meter may be borrowed or maybe $18 from most any store that also sells hammers (which says how much knowledge is required to use a multimeter).

[johntaylor1887]

I'm in the US but I can take a look anyway to get some ideas.

Thanks.

Newegg.com has the cheapest prices in the US.

[PhenixRising]

Why do so much labor? Less than one minute with a digital meter will says everything. Including things that would leave you confused if working harder - swapping a supply.

Simply measure voltage on any one purple, green, orange, red, and yellow wires both before and when the power switch is pressed. Then a next reply willreport the one or two defective suspects. A minute of labor, no removing parts or disconnecting wires, and an answer that comes without speculation.

Easiest and fastest way to have a useful answer. Meter may be borrowed or maybe $18 from most any store that also sells hammers (which says how much knowledge is required to use a multimeter).

thanks, i would have never thought about a voltage meter.

I'll need a working psu though ;)

[westom1]

thanks, i would have never thought about a voltage meter.
I'll need a working psu though
Normal is for a defective supply to still boot a computer. A defect may not cause a crash for months. But the meter will identify a defect long before a warranty expires. Just another reason why the meter can be a powerful tool.

Some motherboards also have an onbaord meter. Its purpose is only to monitor voltages; not report accurate numbers. That onboard volt meter (that software reads) must be calibrated before set points can be accurately defined. Another reason why the meter is a useful tool.

Normal is for a defective supply to still boot a computer (which is why shotgunning is a less reliable solution). Normal is for a perfectly good supply to fail in another system. Problems that are quickly identified using a multimeter before a crash results. Then perfectly good parts need not be replaced.

First establish if your supply has failed. It is a power 'system'. Supply is only one component of that 'system'. Better is to discover which component has failed before replacing anything. A definitive answer (one without doubts) means obtaining numbers. So that you know. Or so that others who know more than provide a useful (definitive) answer.

[cariboo]

I've got a power supply tester I picked on ebay for $10.00CDN, it saves from having to jump pins 15 and 16 on the main connector with a paper clip to get the power supply to fire up.

[westom1]

I've got a power supply tester I picked on ebay for $10.00CDN, it saves from having to jump pins 15 and 16 on the main connector with a paper clip to get the power supply to fire up. Power supply tester can report defective supplies as good. It reports very little beyond the "pin 15 to 16" short. The tester really only reports that AC power is inside that supply.

For almost same money, one buys a multimeter. And then has numbers. No numbers means one can only speculate.

And finally, the power supply tester is a benchmark to identify those without basic computer and electrical knowledge. A magic box sold to those who do not first learn the basics. Reasons why a power supply tester is so useless should be obvious. But it does have one useful advantage. We learn by making mistakes. And then learning from those mistakes. For example, we learn why no answer has integrity without the always required 'facts why' and numbers. That comes from experience - ie making mistakes.

[PhenixRising]

I'm not sure if people are still checking this out but I was able to borrow an old PC from my dad. My opticals work from both computers. The sata drive is pretty much toast. It has quite a few bad sectors so I'm going to get a new one.

I'm going to just buy a new mobo and processor. Newegg has some great sales today.

I'm deciding between two cheap boards.

BIOSTAR G41M7 LGA 775 Intel G41 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard - ~30 and it has dual channel memory as well as an integrated video card that will work out of the box.

or

ZOTAC NF610I-L-E LGA 775 NVIDIA GeForce 7050 / nForce 610i Micro ATX Intel Motherboard - ~20

I'm worried about the Geforce video card. I really don't feel like putting an hour into fixing the resolution.

I wanted to go with an AMD board but the ones on sale all came with DDR3 and I really can't justify buying memory now that I have 2 gigs of DDR2 to use.

So with that in mind I'm stuck in terms of a processor. I'm probably going to with an Intel Celeron E3400 Wolfdale 2.6GHz - dual core for 53.99. I'm kind of lost when it comes to the processor.

Is it worth it to jump up $16 for 2mb of cache? I don't really know if it is or not. If it is then I'll make the jump.

PSU - Antec BP550 Plus 550W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.2 80 PLUS Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply - 39.99 with main in rebate. I figured I'd get a good PSU now and wait on the MOBO and processor.

So, I'm really trying to decide (meaning i have no clue) if its worth paying ~$30 more for a mobo w/ dual channel memory and a processor with more cache. If someone can chime in I'd really appreciate it.

[98cwitr]

just hop on newegg and build you a machine, you can get what you want for under $250.

[cariboo]

Power supply tester can report defective supplies as good. It reports very little beyond the "pin 15 to 16" short. The tester really only reports that AC power is inside that supply.

For almost same money, one buys a multimeter. And then has numbers. No numbers means one can only speculate.

And finally, the power supply tester is a benchmark to identify those without basic computer and electrical knowledge. A magic box sold to those who do not first learn the basics. Reasons why a power supply tester is so useless should be obvious. But it does have one useful advantage. We learn by making mistakes. And then learning from those mistakes. For example, we learn why no answer has integrity without the always required 'facts why' and numbers. That comes from experience - ie making mistakes.

I have a Fluke multimeter that cost a lot more than $10.00 :) I've compared the result between the power supply tester and using a meter. the tester won't show if there is a low voltage, but it will indicate if it's not there. The tester is much easier to use in a customer's home to diagnose a dead computer.

[westom1]

I have a Fluke multimeter that cost a lot more than $10.00 :) I've compared the result between the power supply tester and using a meter. the tester won't show if there is a low voltage, but it will indicate if it's not there. The tester is much easier to use in a customer's home to diagnose a dead computer. In a recent discussion, a power supply was completely dead. And then we used the meter. Power supply was OK. But its power controller was dead. How does your tester report that? It doesn't. Instead it only creates confusion and insufficient information.

A supply is completely defective and still boots the computer. The tester reported that supply as 100% good. So the computer tech spent hours trying to find a defect. He finally resorted to shotgunning. Still could not solve it. Once we taught him how to 'work smarter', that mieter in less than a minute identified the problem.

You spend how much for a Fluke and still do not understand how to use it? When only a cheapest multimeter is required.

You keep using the crappy tester. Others who would solve problems immediately buy a multimeter. For about the same money. A power supply tester is marketed to consumers with zero knowlege with no interest in becoming smarter. "Work smarter; not harder".