Laptop not working.

[Newuser1111]

It's a Toshiba Satellite M35X-S149
Most of the time it won't turn on, the power button lights up but the computer does nothing.

But sometimes it does turn on but will turn off later. Today it was able to stay on for 1 hour before it just turned off.

[dmizer]

I suggest that you start by testing your power supply. Make sure it's putting out the correct voltage and amperage.

[smartboyathome]

I suggest that you start by testing your power supply. Make sure it's putting out the correct voltage and amperage.

I would suggest this as well. I had a laptop with a broken power supply, and it had similar symptoms.

[Newuser1111]

I suggest that you start by testing your power supply. Make sure it's putting out the correct voltage and amperage.How do I do that?
And the Battery is full(I think) and works unless that doesn't have anything to do with it.

[bsharp]

Research the model and see if anyone else had similar problems. I had a Dell Latitude that started doing similar stuff and it turned out the memory sockets tended to go bad on them. Instead of paying Dell $500 to put a new motherboard in a 5 year old laptop I went and bought a new one (Compaq Presario F700 to be exact).

[Skripka]

I would suggest this as well. I had a laptop with a broken power supply, and it had similar symptoms.

I have an Apple notebook with sililar symptoms--ended up being b0rked thermostats on the mainboard.


@OP-unless you're under a warranty, and this is a hardware failure of some sort...odds are this will be more expensive to fix the laptop than to replace outright.

[Newuser1111]

@OP-unless you're under a warranty, and this is a hardware failure of some sort...odds are this will be more expensive to fix the laptop than to replace outright.There isn't a warranty.

[dmizer]

How do I do that?
And the Battery is full(I think) and works unless that doesn't have anything to do with it.

You'll need a multimeter (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multimeter). If you don't have one, just take it into an electronic supply store and have them check it for you, it only takes a second and probably won't cost anything.

Edit,
I also suggest testing your memory. This is more difficult if you can't get the computer to boot. Start by checking the memory modules and making sure they are seated in their slots correctly (just remove them and reinstall them). If you have more than one module, try booting with just one. Then try booting with the other ... try using each module in either memory slot.

[Newuser1111]

I also suggest testing your memory. This is more difficult if you can't get the computer to boot. Start by checking the memory modules and making sure they are seated in their slots correctly (just remove them and reinstall them). If you have more than one module, try booting with just one. Then try booting with the other ... try using each module in either memory slot.Could I test the memory in another computer?

(Memory means RAM, doesn't it?)

[smartboyathome]

Could I test the memory in another computer?

(Memory means RAM, doesn't it?)

If the other computer uses the same type of memory as yours. Look on the label of the RAM, and see the type. If the other computer uses the same or similar type, it should work.

[Newuser1111]

If the other computer uses the same type of memory as yours. Look on the label of the RAM, and see the type. If the other computer uses the same or similar type, it should work.Ok, I put the RAM in the other computer and started Memtest86+ v2.01

EDIT:

Pass complete, no errors, press Esc to exit

[DonaldJ]

If the problem is intermittent, it can be loose connectors in side...

You would need to open everything up, and remove the connectors, and push them back on snug.. but a novice doing this usually nukes the notebook.. and it ends up in a box of full of pieces, in the basement, till someone eventually tosses it in the trash...

Plus you should check the battery connections for stuff like hand-lotion or frenchfry greese or such, from touching them with dirty fingers...
Clean them 4-times with alcohol... You need a long tool to clean the inner contacts.. and you shouldn't use anything that can leave lint behind... Check it with a flashlight that they are clean, and lint-free... Test the power cords for continuity and intermittents...
A lot of these hardware failures are due to sloppy wave soldering... Some repair people generally just resolder whole boards.. and it cures 40% of these types of faults... But it takes a lot of skill, and fine expensive-tools to solder computer boards, without destroying them... If you've got a glitchy PC, trade it in, or trash it, and get a new one... But don't pump money into junk... I had a junker apple notebook that cost me $300 bucks and still it went into the trash... If it's worn-out it's worn-out.. it's garbage... Donate it to a school's computer course...

__________________________________


Off the top, and out of the blue, I'm guessing that you slide your notebook across the carpet a lot.. and maybe across the bed's nylon comforter too.. which creates a lot of spurious static charges, that can really damage sensitive components, in a poorly manufactured computer... I'm guessing that PC is static damaged, big time, and would cost the price of a new one to fix... Thing is, my "off the tops and out of the blue's" are usually bang-on...

[Newuser1111]

If the problem is intermittent, it can be loose connectors in side...

You would need to open everything up, and remove the connectors, and push them back on snug.. but a novice doing this usually nukes the notebook.. and it ends up in a box of full of pieces, in the basement, till someone eventually tosses it in the trash...

Plus you should check the battery connections for stuff like hand-lotion or frenchfry greese or such, from touching them with dirty fingers...
Clean them 4-times with alcohol... You need a long tool to clean the inner contacts.. and you shouldn't use anything that can leave lint behind... Check it with a flashlight that they are clean, and lint-free... Test the power cords for continuity and intermittents...
A lot of these hardware failures are due to sloppy wave soldering... Some repair people generally just resolder whole boards.. and it cures 40% of these types of faults... But it takes a lot of skill, and fine expensive-tools to solder computer boards, without destroying them... If you've got a glitchy PC, trade it in, or trash it, and get a new one... But don't pump money into junk... I had a junker apple notebook that cost me $300 bucks and still it went into the trash... If it's worn-out it's worn-out.. it's garbage... Donate it to a school's computer course...

__________________________________


Off the top, and out of the blue, I'm guessing that you slide your notebook across the carpet a lot.. and maybe across the bed's nylon comforter too.. which creates a lot of spurious static charges, that can really damage sensitive components, in a poorly manufactured computer... I'm guessing that PC is static damaged, big time, and would cost the price of a new one to fix... Thing is, my "off the tops and out of the blue's" are usually bang-on...I opened it yesterday and that made it work better for a while. But I didn't really check anything.
I was just looking for the CMOS battery, but I didn't find it.

[dmizer]

Are you absolutely positive nothing happens after you turn it on? No hard drive activity at all? Your LCD might be dead, so try plugging in an external display.

Also, if the CPU fan is so clogged with dirt and dust that it won't turn, the computer won't start.

[DonaldJ]

Super good point on the "plugged fan"...

But then if the fan is that plugged, then the CPU is very likely fried... and the thing isn't worth fixing...

[tom66]

See if you can get an annoyed beep from the BIOS by holding down many keys. Also, a quick way to see if an OS has booted is to see if Caps Lock, Num Lock or Scroll Lock light up on command.

It is possible the CPU is fried, but just try cleaning out the fan before you throw it away. It is more likely, because it manages to run for several hours, that it is just getting too hot.

[jjpcexpert]

I think this should be moved. Grievance

[Skripka]

Super good point on the "plugged fan"...

But then if the fan is that plugged, then the CPU is very likely fried... and the thing isn't worth fixing...

Meh. Modern CPUs now have thermostats which shutdown the system in the event of overtemp at the thermostat. I'm not saying this is impossible, but it is unlikely the OP fried a CPU.

Pop open the box and clean it out with a can of air. Also, when running-if you can get it to boot and run for a while feel bottom of the computer for heat.

If it is getting hot and crashing you have a heat problem. If it is cold and crashing, it is likely a thermostat problem or a power supply problem.

[mips]

Pop open the box and clean it out with a can of air.

I would also recommend a new 25mm paint brush. In humid climates the dust tends to stick and air alone is not enough in my experience.

[DonaldJ]

Thing about good thermostats is if they work hard in the danger zone, they over stress, and are the first to go... They are more like an early warning system than a superman release valve... Then when the safety feature is gone,the CPU is left to fend on its own, in all that heat...

Thing about fans, is they are forever sucking in dirt...

That notebook sounds like it has a lot of static damage, heat damage, and maybe solder connections damage from the heat... That thing would take at least 3-hours on the bench just to find its faults, at 60-bucks and hour...
It would cost about $400 to $600 to repair.. if the parts are cheap, and available... And it would still probably fail in a year or less...

But if I had that thing, and I really had to get it working.. I would check connections, check cct-brds for sloppy solder connections and color changes on the boards, resolder everything in those areas, and clean the heat-sinks, replace the fan(s), replace the hd, replace the batteries, and power cords... Then if that didn't fix it, I've lost only 200-bucks, and ten hours effort... And it would still probably fail in a year or less...

[Newuser1111]

What's this?
(What the red arrow in the attached image is pointing at)

[Skripka]

What's this?
(What the red arrow in the attached image is pointing at)

It looks like an electrical ground maybe, but could you get a better focused picture-I can barely tell if I'm looking at a monitor hinge or not.

[Newuser1111]

It looks like an electrical ground maybe, but could you get a better focused picture-I can barely tell if I'm looking at a monitor hinge or not.Here's a different picture.

And was that thing supposed to be connected to anything because it wasn't.

EDIT:
Also here's a picture of the board that the power button is on. It's lighter at some parts of it because of the clear plastic over it.

EDIT2:
I found out that the computer's fan wasn't connected!

[mips]

Looks like a ground. Usually placed underneath a screw attached to a metal surface of sorts, in this case the hinge I think.

[Newuser1111]

Now everytime I turn it on the fan goes for a second and the CD Drive reads the DVD but then it turns back off(with the power light still on).

And It was on for a small amount of time.

[JackieChan]

I had a similar problem with my Laptop, it turned out to be a problem with the motherboard. Buying a new laptop ended up being cheaper than getting the laptop fixed, so yeah, I'm getting a new laptop in June. My problem was with the motherboard, but the 'symtoms' could be a number of problems, from the ram, to the video card, to the battery, to the motherboard. You need to have it examined, and once the problem is diagnosed, have it fixed.

[dmizer]

Here's a different picture.

And was that thing supposed to be connected to anything because it wasn't.
Yes, that needs to be connected to ground (earth). As mips said, it's supposed to be connected to one of the hinge screws.


EDIT2:
I found out that the computer's fan wasn't connected!
Sounds like you wound up with a computer that's been torn apart but not put back together properly. Check every single connection, screw, and terminal.

[lisati]

Yes, that needs to be connected to ground (earth). As mips said, it's supposed to be connected to one of the hinge screws.


Sounds like you wound up with a computer that's been torn apart but not put back together properly. Check every single connection, screw, and terminal.

That's done it for me too: when I've tinkered with what's under the hood on a couple of my machines, I've occasionally run into problems with them not starting up properly.

[Newuser1111]

It seems to be working now(might not be later?) after changing some settings in the BIOS, but the touchpad isn't.
I think it isn't connected right, so I'll open it again tomorrow.

EDIT:
Nevermind, It's not working. It crashes while starting Windows or when I press a key.

[dmizer]

The touchpad and keyboard are often handled by the same ribbon cable. If one doesn't work, usually they both don't work.

Even if they are not on the same ribbon cable, it's wise to make sure they are both connected properly. The ZIF slots on those are tiny and can be tricky.

Edit:
It's not a toshiba, but many things will be similar: http://h20181.www2.hp.com/plmcontent/NACSC/SML/results.htm?SID=3369402&MEID=59BC9853-13E9-4704-812F-406D6E398BB4

[Newuser1111]

It's working better now, but it still just doesn't start sometimes but when it gets on to Windows then it stays on it longer than it used to.(I think)
Touchpad now works and the keyboard doesn't crash it.

[mips]

Have you tried booting with a livecd?

[DonaldJ]

Five common-things that I know of that can cause that drop-off:

Baked CPU.. or loose CPU..

Baked hd..

Bad solder joints on the logic board, or the thing was dropped, and has a hairline crack in the printed cct... Shine a very bright light behind the board...

Check for heat damage around the battery slot...



Open it up, and gently partially pull the chips that can be pulled.. then set them solid in their chip mounts, without stressing the cct brd... Very important to check all the areas of the cct boards where ships are pushed into sockets, that someone hasn't pushed a chip-in to hard, and cracked the board or loosened a socket's solder joints...
If you must re-solder computer joints, use a very fine electronics soldering iron, at low heat, and do it quick...
The tip of the iron must always be maintained cleaned with a damp sponge or rag, and it's wise to have a tiny tin of soldering-resin nearby to touch the tip into occasionally to make solder flow faster.. After four seconds you are probably damaging the foils...

Look at the garage sales for the same computer, for a parts one...
Offer 5-bucks.. even if the seller is asking 50-bucks... Walk up to the seller, and say, "Will you take a couple bucks for the wrecked antique parts notebook?"..
And do Not look into the sellers eyes when making your offer, nor after making your offer... It is absolutely Crucial you do not make eye contact when dickering with a Christian.. Because Christians are taught they are "of god", and you Do Not stare into the eyes of a "god", or you get nowhere, and nothing... Never ever make eye contact with a godly seller, and you will usually get the item for your offer... Works 90% of the time for me... Ohhh, and they will try everything to make you make eye contact.. Fiddle with something on their tables.. Ignore their noises and antics to make you make eye contact, and they will eventually break, and say "OK"... After you've paid for it, don't forget to ask for all the cords and power supplies, and extra batteries, and broken parts, and accessories, and cases, if they have any...

From the sounds of this thread, you definitely need a parts unit...


Have you formatted the thing with a W98 CD..? I find that formatting with a W98-CD super-cleans out the security glitches that remain in the memories... And I always pull the battery for ten minutes before a new install... This way old junk can't interfere with the install, because it's all been washed out... Mention this in a Windows forum, and they tar and feather you, want to draw and quarter you, and they suggest they are coming over to shoot you, and they try to hack-attack your PC for the next two weeks, and usually manage destroy the Windows OS at least twice... I suppose it's a well kept secret that they didn't want getting out of the bag...

[Newuser1111]

If this helps at all,
The person that previously had it said that it broke when the left it under a lamp(for hours?) and that the next time they started it, it was asking for the recovery DVD.
Sometime(I'm not sure how much later) after that I got it to fix it.

Now they have a new HP laptop.
And I heard that I might get to keep the Toshiba.


And after I said that I found a Virus(AVG says it's Win32/Heur in Windows\system32\lxcyusb1.dll) they didn't want their files.
I also found out that the C and D drives where shared.


Have you formatted the thing with a W98 CD..?Does it's recovery CD that runs on Windows 98 count? Or should I format it again with my Windows 98 cd.

Baked hd..The hard drive works.