In order to replace Metacity with XFWM4 in GNOME, do the following:
0) Install xfwm4 package trough your package manager (or compile it, if you really want to
1) Run gconf-editor (trough terminal or alt+f2 launcher).
2) Go to /desktop/gnome/session/required_components/windowmanager section.
3) Change value of "windowmanager" key to anything beside metacity (metacity-not for example, so you can easily bring back default value).
4) Close gconf-editor.
5) Launch gnome-session-properties.
6) Click "add" button.
7) In "name" field add XFWM4 (or anything you want, it's just a name).
8) In "command" field add "xfwm4" (without quotes).
9) now log out and log in - you should be running XFWM4 instead of Metacity now.
To change theme and basic settings of XFMW4, launch xfwm4-settings.
If you wan't to bring Metacity back, just remove or deactivate xfwm4 entry from gnome-session-properties and change windowmanager key value in /desktop/gnome/session/required_components/windowmanager section back to metacity (using gconf-editor).
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